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DENSE GREEN FORESTS IN YALA, WHITE-SAND COASTS IN TRINCOMALEE, AZURE WATERS OFF THE SOUTH COAST, ANURADHAPURA’S ANCIENT TEMPLES, AND CRICKET. CIVIL WAR, POLITICAL ASSASSINATIONS, INTERNALLY DISPLACED COMMUNITIES, INDUSTRIAL-SCALE CORRUPTION. ALL ARE SRI LANKA. AS ARE SMUG BUREAUCRATS, NOSY NEIGHBOURS, AND STRAY DOGS WITH SERIOUS AXES TO GRIND. THROUGH THE EYES OF ANDREW FIDEL FERNANDO, CRICKET WRITER PAR EXCELLENCE, BOTH A LOCAL AND A TOURIST IN HIS HOME COUNTRY, SRI LANKA COMES ALIVE AS HE HURTLES DOWN HILLS IN KANDY.